Rake&Co.

Named after Jacques-Pierre de Taffanel de la Jonquière, Governor of New France, Jonquière is the most westerly city in Saguenay. It’s also the last city you’ll reach before taking the highway to Lac-Saint-Jean (to say “take the highway”, is a precise enough direction for a Saguenéen, being as there is only one). The region saw rapid development due to the growth in industry and the opening of factories, which essentially divided it into three sectors; Jonquière has its Cegep, Kenogami its pulp mill and Arvida its aluminium smelting plant. 

Start your day in Jonquière on the right foot and head to Boulangerie Pâtisseries Mergeay (2149, rue Saint-Dominique). Take your pick of their delicious breads, divine chocolates or decadent cakes, they’re all hand-made in the Belgian bakers’ tradition, so you really can’t go wrong. To accompany your purchase of choice, get yourself a Mont-Jacob from Fromagerie Blackburn de Jonquière, I’m pretty sure this place actually can’t stop winning awards. It’s that good. 

Continue on in the same direction to the Parc de la Rivière-aux-Sables. Leave your car and walk around to really take in the scenery. Then get back in your car, or, for the more in-shape among us, walk up to the summit of Mont-Jacob (to be clear, we are not talking about the cheese here) to enjoy the panoramic view of Jonquière. By this point you will have definitely noticed a prominent building called the National Exhibition Centre. Don’t be shy - stop in for a gander. You will be treated to carefully-curated exhibitions but the magnificent architecture of the building itself is worth the visit alone. 

It must be about time for lunch! You should make a reservation and head over to Moutarde Bistro. This brand-new restaurant celebrates the flavours of the Arvida region and seats 30 in its cozy dining room. 

To take full advantage of the relaxed pace of life in the region, let the afternoon pass by leisurely over a coffee at ICI le café Klimt (2434, rue St-Dominique). The café will keep you happy with its supply of delicious coffees, teas, delectable cookies and divine whipped cream. The owner, Pierre, makes you feel right at home and offers a great selection of second-hand books and board games. Challenge yourself to a trivia quiz or just chat with Pierre. Either way, the time will just pleasantly slip by. 

The next suggestion combines 5 à 7 and dinner. The culinary school Aux fruits de ma passion invites you to share a drink, and, as if you needed another excuse to show up, join a cooking class! Not only will you learn cooking tips but you’ll also be invited to stay and enjoy the dishes you so expertly prepared amongst friends in a lovely bistro atmosphere. Not a bad idea right? 

After a gluttonous feast, start (and finish) your night at the famous local brewery, the Voie Maltée. The beers are brewed on site and are absolutely delicious. And, as a plus for those rookie Saguenéens, now’s the time to give some of the local slang a shot: ‘Une Gigonne s.v.p! Ah peut-être une St-Do en fin de compte…’ 

Finally for the most important stop of the day. It's time for a visit, just a few doors away, to the P’tit St-Do (2477, rue St-Dominique), where you can meet famous local “Pauline.” (It is of course, possible that she actually won’t be there. I mean, just because she’s an institution does not mean she doesn’t have the right to a day off now and again.) Make sure to try her poutine anyway; she would give you the same advice herself. If she is around, stop for a while and have a little chat, she’ll love it. 

The city of Chicoutimi was originally called eshko-Timiou in Montagnais, which roughly translates to “go where it’s deep”. This is where you can catch your first glimpse of the legendary Fjord du Saguenay, which stretches all the way to Tadoussac (yep, that’s the place where you see the whales). Chicoutimi is the largest city in the Saguenay, (and also the most posh) it has a university (UQAC) and a college. There may be a tiny bit of a rivalry between people from Jonquière and those from Chicoutimi. I’ll just go ahead and say it. According to some, (namely people from Chicoutimi), the Jonquiérois are gigons (another colourful bit of local slang meaning ‘crude’), but according to others, (guess who?) the Chicoutimiens are snobs. To be fair, I do have friends from Chicoutimi and they really aren’t all bad.

Start off your day in the city with a brunch at Café Cambio located on what locals refer to as The Main (the rue Racine). The café is a micro-roaster and a cooperative that strives to make culture accessible in the region and also brings fair trade products to Saguenéens. They are committed to sustainable development, and use it as a framework for all their projects. The atmosphere is always relaxed and the staff are really friendly, so basically, they're just like all Saguenéens. 

After brunch, take a stroll along the path that follows the Saguenay River to check out the Old Port of Chicoutimi. Then you’ll have to get your car and head up to Chicoutimi-Nord to Ste-Anne’s cross to truly take in the panoramic views of Chicoutimi. 

If the feeling strikes, continue on until St-Fulgence to see where the salty waters of the St. Lawrence and the fresh waters of the Lac-St-Jean meet. This is where you’ll find ‘les batures’ a protected environment that is home to several animal species, especially birds. If you are visiting the area during the winter months, don’t miss your chance to enjoy some ice fishing, a favorite pastime for locals. Tip: the smallest fishing huts throw the biggest parties. 

If you are interested in contemporary art, stay on rue Racine until you reach the Sequence Gallery, a local artist-run centre. The space serves as a gallery space for exhibits and studio for creating, distributing and producing art. You'll notice right away that the aesthetics of the gallery are heavily influenced by photography and that the pieces displayed reflect a mix of old and new technologies. 

Stay on The Main, passing the famous “petite maison blanche”, eventually arriving at the Gallery Le Lobe, which is another artist-run centre. Over the years the gallery has welcomed more than 100 artists-in-residence, most of whom are nationally and internationally-reknowned. 

If you think that you can only find delicious sushi in a big city you have obviously never visited Temaki Sushi Bar, located right in the heart of downtown Chicoutimi. All of their products are fresh, perfectly seasoned and absolutely delicious. Put down the menu and let the chef recommend his selections for the day. I promise you, it will be the best decision that you make all weekend. You do have to taste their sushi pizza though, which, believe it or not, is as delicious as it sounds. Keep yourself hydrated with a glass of one their delicious wines, which are privately imported, or maybe a saké served warm or cold, or you could even get yourself a beer. 

Two tips: 

#1 : Make a reservation. 

#2 : If you are in a group of 4 or more, reserve the private “Japanese” room. You'lll definitely have a memorable evening. 

If you are not the sushi type, Bistrot la vielle garde might be your cup of tea. They serve up delicious dishes in their homely bistro all of which are prepared with love. What’s more, Merlin is a genius with wine; you will not be disappointed with his selection, plus he’s as friendly as can be! If you need your food in a hurry, there is a counter with ready-to-eat foods: homemade and regional products that would be the perfect accompaniment to a nice glass of wine or a refreshing beer. 

To help you digest, head to Bar à pitons in the youth hostel located in the Price House. Enjoy one of their Soirées Jazz and Scotch, Pastis and Pétanque, or just take in a show by a local band. Be warned, I can't promise you'll remember your night once they're done with you. The space is run by the Coop Verte whose mission is: "to bring to life the regional culture to visitors from around the world and for local residents alike by offering diverse and accessible cultural activities." You may also be able to catch a show at Coop Le Sous Bois, which is managed by Café Cambio. 

La Baie is located in the Baie des Ha! Ha! in the Saguenay River. Be sure to make the detour and really take your time to appreciate the scenery; it's around here that the Fjord becomes even more breathtaking. 

Before continuing on, make another mandatory detour at the Fromagerie Boivin to enjoy some of that cheese that goes “sqwish-sqwish” when its hot from the oven. Imagine for one minute a poutine made with this cheese. It's so good, it's ridiculous. Come to think of it, you’ve already tasted this miracle poutine, Pauline made it for you back in Jonquière!

Continue onwards through St-Felix and Petit Saguenay to finally arrive at L’Anse-Saint-Jean. It's a long, winding road, but the scenery that surrounds it makes is totally worth it. 

Summertime: take a cruise or kayak to admire the mountains of the famous Fjord from up close. 

Wintertime: skiing enthusiasts will appreciate Mount Édouard, the highest peak in the Saguenay-Lac-Saint-Jean region, with a vertical drop of 450 feet and 32 slopes with over 3 km of trails. Plus, there's an amazing view of the Fjord from the chairlift. 

Open year-round, Édouard-les-bains, a Nordic spa resort complex, will tend to your peace of mind. You will be charmed by the tranquility of this retreat in the woods. And I quote: “It enjoys a wonderful panorama amongst trees from the summit to the valley. It is an enchanting site that inspires relaxation and rejuvenation.” How can you not be tempted?